Cabrales, a hidden corner of northern Spain. Here, cheese is made by farmers who live in remote stone huts, high in the misty mountains. The cheese is matured from white to blue in damp, dark caves adorned with spiders webs. The pungent smell that greets you when you enter the caves is overwhelming. The only sound as you trek the path to reach them is of cow bells from the cattle, rendered invisible by the all-enveloping mist. Cattle which, when I did eventually come face to face with them, turned out to be the most beautiful (and enormous) cows I have ever seen.